The downside of batch sparging is reduced brewhouse efficiency – since a significant amount of sugar will be left undissolved and be discarded with the grains rather than make its way into the wort. The “no sparge” option uses a higher water to grain ratio when mashing and drains it all out in a single operation, while batch spargers use two or more sparge water additions, draining the mash tun empty each time. For these techniques a fixed amount of hot sparge water is added to the mash tun, the tun is gently stirred to assure even extraction for the batch, and then the entire mash tun is drained into the boiler, often at a fast rate (i.e.
Two alternatives to fly sparging are the “no sparge” and “batch sparge” techniques. Also fly sparging is a slow process – requiring as much as 60-90 minutes in some cases. One must have not only a method for spreading water continuously over the grain bed, but also constantly monitor the flow of the water into the mash tun to make sure the grains do not run dry or overflow. Commercial brewers will monitor the specific gravity of the hot wort coming out of the mash tun and stop when it reaches approximately 1.010 to avoid off flavors and tannins associated with low wort concentration.ĭuplicating a traditional fly sparge at home does create some challenges for the homebrewer. This gives a continuous flow, ideally with the flow in matching the flow out. Traditionally brewers use a fly sparge, where hot sparge water is continuously sprayed over the top of the mash tun to replace the hot wort as it is drained from the bottom of the mash tun. There are three techniques for sparging: the fly sparge, no sparge and batch sparge. We will then take the sugary wort, add some hops, boil it and ferment it to make our favorite beverage: Beer.
The purpose is to extract the sugars created by the mashing process and dissolve them into hot water to form wort. Sparging (or lautering) is done at the end of the mash process, before the boil.
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